Relaxation By Surfing

I really, really loved the beach. The salty breezes brushing against your skin, the clear blue waters of the ocean. The laughter that children bring as they wade through the low waters, splashing and trying to chase each other in the shallow waves. I loved the feeling of relaxation given by the sereness of the tides, how they ebb and flow with the moon.

Again, for the fourth time this morning, I strolled quickly down to the beach. I felt the cool breeze brush against my tanned skin, the softness of the wind calming me. I carried my bright purple surfboard towards the shore, standing with my feet in the wet, sticky sand.

I looked out at the ocean, breathing deeply. It always gives me a sense of tranquility to just look at the ocean, but an even bigger sense when I am in the water. Feeling the cold liquid against my legs on a hot day, soaking in the feel of life around me.

I kicked off my bright red flipflops and started paddling out into the dark surf.

My dark hair was pulled up in a tight ponytail, slapping the back of my wet neck and sticking to it from the salt water. My modest two piece was a bright blue, not quite as dark as the water, but not was light as the sky. My Fitbit beeped and told me that it was 7:32am, but I didn't have time to worry about what time it was. I needed to get in some practice before the big day.

Today was the big surfboarding competition at the Miami School of Surf; a new-ish organization that taught kids and adults (ages 5+) how to surf properly. I've been going to the school since I was 7, so I've had my fair share of practice.

I really, really loved that school. It was right next to the beach, so whenever you needed extra practice or to borrow a surfboard, you could just do it whenever you wanted. That school was where I got my surfboard that I use today. I've been using it for the past 5 years, and my parents have been practically begging me to get a new one.

The purple board I use has some minor cracks in it, but nothing some water-proof duct tape wouldn't fix (I hope). Its paint had been chipping away, so I replaced it with some of the paint for my mom's office in our house. She wasn't happy about that. The floral print that had originally been on the head of the board was faded and covered in splotches of the new paint, so you couldn't really see it. It just has character, like most 5-year-old boards do.

My parents don't really like the idea of me surfing. They complain that it is too dangerous, with too many risky complications that could occur at any time. That's why I convinced them with the power of persuasion, telling them that they only do practice when the weather's right or when the waves are low enough.

The only reason they let me go to MSS -Miami School of Surf- is because I got a scholarship to it when I was younger. See, I had been on a small paddleboard and caught tiny waves when I was only 5 years old. They had to do a lot of haggling, but my parents eventually let me go to the school. Now, I've got a ton of friends and supporters that come and cheer me on at all of the competitions.

I'm the best of my grade, but I'm still nervous. Today's competition consists of the best from all classes, and I'm the only 12-year-old who is attending. Everyone else is at least two years older than me, and that's why I'm up so early.

I've found that when the moon is setting and the sun is rising, the waves are really nice. Not too slow, but not so choppy that I'd get thrown off my board (which hurts, believe me). So, I've been out three times this morning, trying to catch a good wave. The problem is, the other contestants also practice early in the morning.

I'm friends with some of the older kids, like Jax Mason and Liz Raye. There are others, though, like Bella Thomas and Ricky Coswell who I have a problem with. It's not so much that they're jerks or anything, but that they are showoffs. I don't like showoffs.

Sure, that sounds like hypocrisy, but I don't think I show off that much. The contest starts at noon, so I have about three or four hours left of practice. An hour 'til breakfast, an hour or two after, and maybe some side time for swimming and paddling.

I look out at the ocean, taking a deep breath to steel myself. I jump into the water with my surfboard, lying flat on top and paddling out to sea. I use the normal stroke and kick as I swim, back and forth, back and forth.

I see the wave crest coming at me, and I stand on the board. I wobble a little but catch myself before I can fall. After steadying myself, I stand straighter and watch the wave. It curls up and takes my board along with it. I feel the rush of the warm air running past me, blowing the semi-dry hair in the wind. I laugh as the sea takes me along with it.

The wave curls over me, leaving me in a barrel large enough to case my entire surfboard. I quickly move out the end before I can get soaked too badly, and I paddle back to shore. I see Liz and Jax waiting for me on the shore, shouting and waving at me enthusiastically.

My board lands back on the shore, and I walk off as it slows. The cool breeze calms my racing heart as I chat with Liz and Jax. I love the beach.