The air hangs hot and humid, reaching nearly 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Sweat trickles beneath your clothing as you move along. Just in front of you, a beautiful black cat wanders along the dusty pathways as though guiding you toward your final destination. You wonder if the cat knows what secrets lie herein, and secretly name him Quetzalcoatl. You stifle a laugh. Yes, the name’s more Aztec than Mayan but still, this cat looks so majestic as he moves, the name just seems to fit.
The wind unexpectedly rustles through the trees as though the gods concur with your choice of name. Whispers of long silenced echoes seem to hang in the stagnant air, whispering in the occasional breeze and surrounding you with an eerie sense of something other worldly, foreboding, and long lost. Dust particles lift and stir with the movements of those, both seen and otherwise, all around. You feel the heaviness in your lungs with each breath and step you take beneath the intertwined tree limbs hanging just overhead. The trees bring a brief respite or momentary shelter from the sun’s scorching rays. Each stir of dust leads you one step closer to what beckons beyond. Not knowing exactly what you will find ahead, you still obey the summons, following the footsteps of the black cat who never looks back. This is that for which you have traveled one hundred miles inland.
At the end of a lengthy path, the black cat scuttles off as you clear the tree lined lane and step into a grass-filled field, nearly blinded by the blazing sun overhead. Before your eyes, it materializes directly in front of you, majestic and overwhelming as though pulled from the depths of imagination. It is a large and imposing structure, ancient by design, in an otherwise desolate region. It dominates, demanding your rapt attention as ancient wonders envelop to fill your senses. Chichén Itzá, Mexico’s massive, immortalized and meticulously designed Mayan city in the Yucatan state, its largest pyramid, El Castillo, front and center looms as you enter the clearing. The wind unexpectedly surfaces and whips about you with a force as the ruins speak in echoes of the dead, those sacrificed in ritualistic Mayan ceremonies. While those unfortunate souls are long gone, they are not forgotten, a multitude of carved skulls eternalized where they are etched to line more than one stone edifice in the ancient city.
Wandering through the geometric assemblage of meticulously constructed stone structures, lingering voices of the past permeate, filling you with a tumultuous onslaught of emotions. At first, you are not sure how you should feel, enraptured by the sheer wonder of it all. Your mind cannot help but question the realistic magnitude of such ancient structures. How on earth did the Mayans manage to build such a magnificent pyramid and other gigantic buildings during such a primitive era? It appears all too surreal. You’re easily left to wonder about the possibility of aliens helping with the construction in the face of such impossible tasks. As you walk and take note of the assorted details, the wonder begins to dissipate a bit. Instead, you are left with something more resonating in your depths - something akin to profound sadness. A need to weep emerges from within.
Skulls. They appear in your line of vision nearly everywhere you look. Stone walls and structures are filled with rows upon rows of the carved images of skulls, clearly symbolic of those sacrificed in crude and ritualistic Mayan ceremonies. Seeing the vast number of emblazoned carvings is unsettling, and you're left to wonder just how many people were chosen daily, weekly, or monthly for the supposed sacrificial "honor". You are torn between wanting to understand more about the Mayans' existence in 700 A D whilst also being horrified at the thought of their primitive, barbaric rituals.
In addition to skulls, there are a multitude of snakes and jaguars symbolized, their images and sculptures reflected all around. Both these creatures were thought to be deities and worshipped by the Mayans. A giant jaguar statue, with bejeweled jade eyes is said to grace the top, primary sacrificial enclosure of the main pyramid, El Castillo. Due to years of decline from repeated climbing and episodes of graffiti, destruction, and injured tourists, it is now forbidden to ascend the steps of the large pyramid. The steps, however, are so steep, not all would wish to attempt the endeavor. Vendors line the paths of the property, eager to sell hand carved jaguars and snakes made from onyx or wood, each replicating the revered creatures of the Mayans.
You wander a bit aimlessly for a brief while, attempting to see all that you can in the short amount of time allotted, when you turn down a previously untraveled path. There you encounter the same black cat again who sits beside yet another vendor. She is a middle-aged woman, obviously from the nearby rural community and speaks no English. Instead, it is her large dark brown eyes that intreat you to purchase of her goods as she stands relentlessly beneath sun’s radiant heat. She can feel the hope she holds that you will buy one of her handsewn handkerchiefs. As though the black cat has demanded to pay close attention, you pause, taking a closer look at the items in her basket. You are suddenly uplifted by both the simplistic beauty of the items and the encouraging, timid smile of the seller. Here is something that will mark your visit to such a famous landmark without focusing on the sacrificial brutality found herein. Instead, each handkerchief reflects a culture, a group of people residing each day in Chichén Itzá’s massive, rural shadow. Compelled, you offer her sixty dollars for only four of the small handkerchiefs. It’s much more than the amount she is requesting, but you instinctively know this woman feeds her family contingent on the sale of the simply sewn handkerchiefs. You simply cannot find it within yourself to barter for the purchase of her treasured goods. The American dollars you pay will be highly valuable in the flailing Mexican economy. Looking closer, you see each handkerchief is stitched with flowers or an image of the pyramid, always accompanied by the words “Recuerdo de Chichén Itzá” – “Do Not Forget Chichén Itzá”.
It is the end of the visit. Items you’ve purchased from the woman are in hand as you make your way back to the path that leads to the exit and the tour van. Interestingly enough, the black cat has appeared again – out of nowhere – to make sure you are able to find your way. You smile. He’s been a dedicated tour guide and companion, and again, you’re left to wonder what secrets he knows about these all too mystical ruins. Despite the unease you’ve felt at times, you’re pleased you chose to make the two-hour trip inland from the luxurious resort in Cancun. It’s not every day, after all, you can see an ancient city or one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, so it’s a definite check on your bucket list. Still, you’re left with an overwhelming depth of emotion as you see the black cat sitting patiently by the entrance to the ruins, as though awaiting the next visitor. If you didn't know better, you'd believe this lone cat was a direct descendent of a majestic and worshipped jaguar from ancient days.
You watch the receding foliage of Chichén Itzá while vibrations resonate as you settle back in your seat, anticipating the long trip. While immensely impressive, what you’ve seen has been overwhelming and difficult to comprehend because of the Mayans’ primitive, barbaric way of life. Thankful for the experience and historical information gleaned, you know, without a doubt, the one memory you will carry with you the longest. Try as you might, you will never be able to forget the dark brown, pleading eyes of the woman. Even though you exchanged only a few stilted words of broken Spanish with her and the handkerchiefs you purchased were simply sewn cloths, you are aware you’ve obtained something much more valuable. This dark-eyed woman and the impression she made upon your heart will continue to live in the recesses of your best memories because, for you, she is the true essence of Chichén Itzá.
Recuerdo de Chichén Itzá.........Always.
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