FURFU-THUMA
Baltu Mittar was missing. During my excursion to Darjeeling lost trace of him. I searched each & every probable place. No trace of him. I was considering advertising in a newspaper about missing Baltu. Writings draft of advertisement as I was about to go to the office of the newspaper along with a photograph of Baltu, a postman appeared in my residence handing over me a registered letter. Opening the letter, I found it was from my dear friend Baltu. He has written to me. ‘It’s a confidential letter’ endorsed initially. Hence I couldn’t divulge to anyone about him. The narration of Baltu is ...................
“Dear Sanju,
I am now in Lhasa. In Lhasa, the Capital of Tibet, I think you are now stuck dumb. There are numerous anecdotes. If I try to write all, it will become an epic. Even then listen to it in nutshell. I went on a tour to Gangtok from Darjeeling. On the way, I was acquainted with a track driver from Bihar. His name was Lakhon Singh. He was a frequent visitor of Gangtok. Showing me all the places of interest in Gangtok he set out towards ‘Enche Gumpha’ along with me. On the way, we found a sick old ‘Lama’ fallen in a shallow ditch. Lakhon & I rescued old Lama & took him to an asylum. Since Lakhon couldn’t stay with him more he had to return with his track. I had to stay with old Lama for serving him. I brought back him to a normal state by proper nursing. In the meanwhile, I could learn the passable Tibetan language. I used to address him as ‘Lama Baba’. He was affectionate to me as his offspring.
Lama Baba belonged to the ‘Gelug Pa’ sect of Tibetan Buddhism, where Dalai Lama is regarded as an incarnation of Avolokiteswara and is considered as a benevolent ruler & teacher.
Coming to know that Lama Baba would go to Tibet, I persistently requested him to take me with him. I didn’t have a passport with me & more so I am an Indian by birth. Since Tibet is subservient to China, it was difficult & hazardous to enjoy the company of Lama Baba. But I being an obstinate person, he was half inclined to take me with him. He took me to Enche Gumpha ( Monastery).
Thereafter my training began. Initiating me in Buddhism, he accustomed me to the decorum & manners of ‘Trapa’, which means ‘student’ or scholar. He preached to me about Tibetan Buddhism & the history of Tibet. He taught me about Lamaism & the education system. He made me hear the stories of Dalai Lamas & Panchen Lamas. I learned various scriptures about charms & incantations (Tantra Vidya) indicated in four chapters of ‘Viya rgyud’, ‘Pha rgyud’, ‘Ma rgyud’, ‘Gnuis med kyi rgyud’. Lama Baba explained what is ‘Mandala’ & its construction. I learned about the ‘Cham’ festival & dance. After successful completion of the apprenticeship of Tibetan Buddhism, Lama Baba dressed me with the apparel of a Lama and blessed me. Thereafter we the group of Lamas went on pilgrimage towards Tibet. We were ordered not to talk on the way but only to chant ‘OM Mani Padme Hum’.
There is a strange tranquil environment within. An oil lamp was enkindled in the darkness. Within this chiaroscuro, I found many chests in rows containing mummies of ‘Darjee Pamo’s. I was slowly proceeding forward step by step being struck dumb. All of a sudden I fell down on the floor receiving a jolt against something else. I heard a metallic sound ‘Thang’. In the semi-darkness, I could see it is a metallic container wrapped with a green ‘Tankha’. This ‘Tankha’ is inscribed by variegated ‘Mandala’, the image of Lord Buddha, a symbol of life & Crossing the ‘Yangtuk’ town we arrived at ‘Farizang’ town, a principal trade center of Tibet. After this, there was acclivity up to ‘’Chausal huri’ mountain peak twenty-three thousand feet high. Crossing that with strenuous effort, we came down to a plane land. The path goes towards Lhasa from this place. After crossing few small Tibetan suburbs we reached ‘Samada’ town. The frequency of Chinese soldiers came to our notice earlier. Before the entrance into the town, all of a sudden I was under surveillance of a Chinese military officer. After the superintendence filing our group of Lamas, the officer coming near me asked me in unequivocal English, “Are you Indian?”
Before I replied to him, Lama Baba quickly said, “Getsol Getsol.” ‘Getsol’ is the primary state of cognizance as a Lama. The Chinese officer released us after observing me with a suspicious look. Crossing the ‘Samada’ town we reached ‘Kiyangsu Gumpha’. By the proximity of which was a sacred lake, named ‘Shering zong’. Along with others I also took a bath, after long days of interval. My body became refreshed.
In fear of Chinese soldiers without spending the night here we proceeded towards “Khangkha” village through ‘Niyangschu’ valley. In the night we had dinner with ‘Thukma’, a soup of barley & sheep’s flesh.
The next day we set out in the early morning. I could see a town, named ‘Giyatse’; the frequency of Chinese soldiers. Keeping me in the center of the Lama group, Lama Baba took us to village ‘Gobsi’. There is a lake here, named ‘Yomdrok’ Our night stay was in a ‘Gumpha’ beside it.
Am I writing much, Sanju? What am I to do? Still, then it’s in nutshell. It’s not possible to write many occurrences, scenic views & experiences in this letter. I will narrate elaborately if I am able to return any day. Now listen to......
There are many hamlets on the way to ‘Samding Gumpha’ from Gobsi village. A place is known as ‘Balung’ situated about fourteen feet high. ‘Sang po’,’ is flowing below it, which is known as the River Brahmaputra entered in India via Assam state. I became a little unmindful. I came to senses by the call of Lama Baba.
We stationed at ‘Samding Gumpha’. This Gumpha is divided into two parts, one for male Lamas & the other for Female Lamas. Omnipotent ‘Guru’ of female Lamas is known as ‘Dorje Pamo’. There is an odd-looking hundred armed idol of Lord Buddha in the main temple. The meaning of ‘Samding’ is a mountain of meditation. Really it’s a tranquil environment. Everyone is performing ones’ duty silently. There is a Lake behind the temple, where there are no Chinese soldiers. Hence obtaining the consent of Lama Baba I strolled near the lake. A stinky smell of dried fish, kept on the bank of the lake for drying in sun was emanating. I felt nauseating from the smell. While returning forthwith from the lake, I unmindfully entered within a concealed chamber behind the temple death and senility. I don’t know when I unconsciously kept the container in the bag of my girdle. Getting a sound of a footstep, coming out of the chamber, I found Lal Baba standing in front. Scolding mildly, he took me to the room of ‘Gumpha’.
The next morning we were going ahead towards Lhasa through the ‘Sang Po’ valley. Near ‘Chaksam Gumpha’ we crossed a river in a boat. There were Chinese soldiers, but they didn’t suspect us. Lhasa, a large town full of temples was visible from a distance. There is a cautiousness of Chinese soldiers. There are several travelers, mostly Americans & Brazilians, and a few Indians. Chinese soldiers are busy checking their passports. Our group of Lamas entered Lhasa undisturbed. Our destination is ‘Drepung Gumpha’. It is the largest monastery in the world. The main temple is surrounded by four universities. It is surprising that such an ancient but good management. The main temple is known as ‘Zokhang’. The palace of ‘Dalai Lama’ named ‘Potala’ situated on a hillock.
Dear Sanju, I think you feeling boredom reading this description of my journey in the letter. But I must tell you it is not a travelogue. This is a prologue to my actual anecdote. Please continue reading.
I arrived at the ‘Potala’ palace along with Lama Baba. There are thirty-five tiny temples within the main palace. A ‘Gumpha’ is visible through the window below the palace. Lama Baba told the name of this ‘Gumpha’ as ‘Chakpuri’. It’s an ‘Ayurvedic’ & pharmaceutical university. The Indian ‘Ayurved’ was translated into Tibetan script during the ancient era. The students are taught here. Our group of Lamas was descending down when I was observing ‘Chakpuri’ with keen interest. All of a sudden I heard a voice in Hindi, “Very fine! Very beautiful place.” I looked at the person beside me, praising his own. I enquired in Hindi, “Are you Indian?” The person astonishingly was looking at me. I said, “I am an Indian too.” I requested him to meet me at ‘Drepung Gumpha’ in the evening secretly without informing anybody. I wanted to send a letter secretly to you through him.
I got down to the group of Lamas. In the meanwhile I noticed that a Nigerian or American person was looking at me with a fixed eye, sitting on the stairs of the ‘Potala’ palace. Once or twice looking back I turned my face feeling uneasiness. Lama Baba took us to visit the library of ‘Drepung Gumpha’.
I became spellbound observing such a large library here. I presume there are more or less thirty-six thousands of books are kept here. Lama Baba said, “There are a thousand copies of ‘Zang Giur’ & ‘Kang Giur’ are preserved here.’ Asking Lama Baba I came to know ‘Zang Giur’ in Buddhist scripture of ethics & morals and ‘Kang Giur’ is its simple explanation. While moving around I found a huge collection of precious scriptures & ‘Vedantas’ of various sagacious great persons of ancient India.
Suddenly a tiny book came to my notice. The book title was ‘Idam’ means a mysterious word. Mischievous tendencies grew in my mind. Looking this side & that, quickly pulling that book from the rack I hid it under my gabardine.
After visiting the ‘Chakpuri’ Lama Baba went with the Lamas towards the bank of the ‘Kichu’ river. I along with two Lamas stayed away from them. Sitting secretly behind a rock I eyed cursorily on the pages of the book.
Do you know Sanju what is the secret in this book? It was the secret mystical formula to preserve youth eternally. That mystical formula is nothing but a substance made by a complete amalgamation of decoction of some herbs & chemical substances, name ‘FURFU THUMA’.
Now it’s evening. The Indian, whom I asked to come to me in the evening, is found loitering near ‘Drepung Gumpha’. Presumably, I have seen that Nigerian too. I am finishing the letter writing. I will have to hand over the letter to that Indian. I have already written your address on the envelope.
If I am able to return, I will strike the world with my new invention. That book is still with me under my gabardine.
With love & affection
Yours ever
Baltu.”
About two to three months passed after receiving the letter from Baltu. There is no trace of Baltu. I am anxious about him. I am in a dilemma about what to do. During this anxious state of mine, one day suddenly my doorbell goes in the noon. Opening the door I became startled. A Lama was standing in front, wearing torn & ragged red gabardine. Face full of beard & mustache. Shaven head, sunken reddish eyes. I was unable to decide what I should do. That Lama uttered in unequivocal Bengali dialect, “What’s matter Sanju. Can’t you recognize me?” Looking at him minutely I embraced him screaming, “ Oh! Baltu! You are!”
After taking bath, wearing a fresh dress from me, taking some eatable, what episodes narrated by him was a shocking affair. Let me describe as per dialect of Baltu:-
“After paying homage to the temple of Lhasa, Lama Baba proceeded with us to the pilgrimage of Kailas & Manasarovar. Moving for ten days from Lhasa we came to ‘Shigatse’ town, headquarter of Chinese soldiers. It’s a big town. As such the foreigners are being searched off & on. Avoiding ‘Shigatse’ town Lama Baba heaved a great sigh after crossing the ‘Lhasazong’ ferry ghat. The main high way towards Kailas-Manasarovar was in front. After walking about ten days, taking shelter in various ‘Gumphas’, we arrived at the plane land. There were two lakes in our front, on the left ‘’Yumtso Mapam’ or ‘Manas Lake & on the right ‘Lhanag Tso’ or Rakshas Tal. Towards the southern side, there was snow white ‘Gurla Mandhata’ Mountain. And towards the Northern side snow-covered peak in between two mountains was the magnanimous Mount Kailas. Circumambulating around Mount Kailas from ‘Tarchen’ we returned to ‘Tarchen’. I felt that I have seen that Nigerian amongst a band of travelers. From the very beginning, I couldn’t like that fellow. It seemed that particular person was following me. Is it for seizing that secret book? Else could he recognize my identity? I intimated that to Lama Baba. Lama Baba became afraid. Lama Baba set out at dawn along with me. A road was towards Gangtok, Ladak & Kashmir. Showing me the way towards Gangtok Lama Baba embraced me with tearful eyes.
Walking for about two days, I felt someone was following me. Turning around a bend I found that the Nigerian person is standing in front. He came straight to me & demanded that secret book. To avoid him I started running. The Nigerian miscreant clasping me snatching that book from me pushed me in the flowing river below.
When came to my senses I found myself lying in the bed of a military hospital in India. The doctor was a Bengal person. I came to know from him that floating in the river I was struck upon a large boulder. Some soldiers finding me there brought me to their hospital. They served me a lot considering me as a Lama. I could return here with the assistance of that Bengali Military doctor.
But it’s a pity Sanju, that precious book has gone in the hand of that Nigerian. I couldn’t do the epoch-making invention.”
I said, “But dear Baltu that epoch-making invention has already done in the USA.”
“Done?” Baltu surprisingly enquired, “What’s that invention?”
I replied, “Viagra. The symbol of eternal youth.”
Baltu with a deep sigh kept silent for a while. All of a sudden recalling a subject, I enquired, “Baltu you wrote in your letter about a metallic container. What it contained?”
:
Baltu startling rushed into the bathroom. Taking out the metallic container from the pocket of his ragged gabardine, wrapped with ‘Tangkha’. It was a silver container. Opening that container we got five transparent greenish small globules & a paper inscribed with Tibetan script. Taking the paper in hand, going through it Baltu shouted, “FURFU THUMA, FURFU THUMA.”
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